Friday, August 26, 2011

Advice and tips for round the world travel!



On a bridge in Prague

In a club in Liverpool 


On Tower Bridge London

In Venice

Overlooking Palermo, Sicily

In Barcelona in front of Sagrada Familia

Trying Guiness even though I hate beer

With my friend in Dublin

An amazing house near Blarney Castle in Ireland

On Koh Phi Phi with some friends and girlfriend

With my girlfriend in Thailand

With a Thai fighter in Chang Mai

With some Cambodian kids near the killing fields

Angkor Watt


In a Cambodian hotel basement with staff 

In Laos
How I looked after an eye infection from tubing in Laos

While I was working in a bank in Perth

Down town Hanoi

On August 12th I returned to New Zealand after 370 days travelling overseas.

August 5th last year I departed Christchurch to Thailand on the first leg of my multi-continent journey. I was unsure of the next stage for my career or study and in the meantime, travel seemed like the best option.

It was the longest I'd been away from my family and friends and it was incredible.

My trip was 20 countries in Oceania, South East Asia and Europe.

Here are some simple tips that I have drawn from my trip that could help you next time you are on the road.


Travel doesn't have to be expensive:


In my year travelling by far the highest expense was flights. Aside from that, travelling was cheaper than my every day life in New Zealand. I didn't have to pay regular rent (I got cheap accomodation a lot of the time and couchsurfed), I didn't have to pay car maintenance and food was generally cheaper than in NZ too.

Have a practical bag and pack light.

 If you are in a developing country and want to have a ride on the back of a scooter, a giant suitcase will be a massive pain in the arse. A comfortable and sturdy backpack is ideal. Along the journey you will inevitably collect souveineers so best plan is to leave half to three quarters empty.


Write down details of where you are going who you are meeting and try to have a map in advance.

If you're melting in the sun carrying your backpack from the airport or train station you just wanna get to your accomodation pronto. The simple step of writing down a meeting point and putting details on your phone plus carrying a map prevents needless waiting, searching and feeling pissed off.


Have a place sorted in a city before you stay

 I don't mean booking well in advance. Sometimes you can book on the very day you travel. It will make you feel better going to a city and knowing that you have a room sorted to stay. Just turning up to a hostel will often mean paying extra because the staff know you probably can't be bothered finding somewhere else. Hostelfinder and hostelworld are easy sites for booking accomodation and the advice from other backpackers is a good guide for whether a place is a shithole or not. 


Couchsurf!

I'm going to write a separate post about this later but off the bat I can honestly say that joining couchsurfing.org is one of the best things I've ever done..

 You can meet amazing people from all around the globe, you get a cultural experience from a local and free accomodation. I couldn't have stayed in Europe for so long if it wasn't for my great couchsurfing hosts. I got places in the centre of Paris, Siciliy, Brussels, Berlin etc etc.


Put your money in multiple places and carry a credit card.

When going out I tend to only take as much as I think I'll spend and leave the rest in a safe place at my residence. Having a credit card can come in handy for booking or emergency purchases. Don't put all your eggs in one basket cause if you lose your money and passport together, you will be underneath a shit volcano just as it errupts.

Dress sensibly and for the climate

There are times in the trip when I didn't have the right clothes for the environment and paid dearly. If you wear too much when it's hot you will be repelling potential friends with your body odour and feeling dredful. Flip flops are pretty good but not for climbing a hill and not on slippery rocks. A quality pair of all purpose shoes are a must.

Be respectful of the local culture

 Westerners have a bad reputation in parts of Asia because we are viewed as being loose and disrespectful. I went to Vang Vieng last year and had a blast but I can completely understand the perspective of some of the locals in Laos when I read this article:

 http://www.stuff.co.nz/travel/international/5372627/Laos-tubing-craze-destroying-town

 It's fine to enjoy yourself but think about the image you convey if you are in a conservative country wearing next to nothing, especially when visiting a temple or a religious site. Determine the social norms of a country to establish whether strolling round in a group of friends staggeringly drunk is accepted or not.


Sleeping aids are your friend:

If you are crashing in noisy hostels after a long journey on a train or bus you want a good night's kip. Some earplugs and face mask will aid you especially when people in your dorm are getting up at 5am to catch their flights. A good neck pillow will come in handy many times as well so keep one on you.


Try travelling alone:

 You are never really alone while travelling because you will literally always meet people. It's much easier to make friends when you are by yourself because other travellers feel more at ease approaching you. I've had locals take me to a Vietnamese movie in Vietnam, people buy me dinner or drinks and all sorts of cool experiences which would not have happened had I been with a friend. If you suddenly have an urge to go with a new friend to a different place than you originally intended you don't have to consult another party to see if they are up for it.  Try it out, at least once..


Don't look like a tramp at customs:


Customs staff the world over are notorious fucking assholes. It's in the nature of their job to be suspicious of everyone but there's no need to wave a flag that says "I look like I'm a drug mule". If you want to be searched and delayed and the airport then don't shave for a few months and dress in your most shabby clothes.


Bring entertainment for long journey

Get as many small books crammed into your carry bag as possible, charge your Mp3 player and bring some cards or games if you've got them. 18 hours on a train through Vietnam or a 16 hour boat trip in Laos will gradually make you lose the will to live. Great scenery will only keep you entertained for so long.



Agree on a price first:

This is very important. Write the price down if the person doesn't speak English and make sure they agree to it. One of the most common things you hear travellers tell you about is "that bastard taxi driver who charged me 20 dollars when the trip usually costs 5.."


To save money:


Buy your lunches at supermarkets

If there is a water cooler at your place, fill your portable bottle.

Have a daily budget, and try hard to stick at it, unless you are loaded you can't travel long if you are shredding through 50 bucks a night on alcohol.


Know the local exchanged rate and have a rough idea of the typical price of things

In some countries, people don't look at you as a person as much as a walking, talking ATM. Be clued up on money or you will get shafted


Go to museums or shopping malls to use toilets:

Sometimes you will spend an hour looking for a loo and in some countries the restaurants wont let you use the bathroom if you don't buy something.


Try street food but be careful:

If there are flies on the food displayed, go elsewhere. If they fry the food in front of you, you should be okay.

Bring some medication and toilet paper in your carry bag because you never know when your body will say "get this crap out of me!" I had a horrible moment on a plane shortly after having food poison in Jakarta. I was talking to a nice American girl and had the sudden feeling I would explode.. Fortunately I didn't.

Monday, August 8, 2011

Living in Jakarta: The Good, The Bad and The Ugly

The city at night - makes the pollution less noticeable
In 2010/11  I spent five months in Jakarta, predominantly studying Indonesian language. I left Indonesia directly after my graduation ceremony and since then I've spent two weeks in Vietnam then returned to NZ.
Jakarta is a developing city in a developing country. It has about 10 million people and many issues that you would expect from a place that only emerged from brutal dictatorship in 1998. The following is my experience of Jakarta:

It's extremely important to make the point that I believe all the problems I've outlined are solvable. I won't claim to have the answers but I think solving the issues is a question of national priorities. If a big portion of Indonesia's population are struggling through life, worrying whether they will have enough food to eat then they are probably not going to be as focused on stopping corruption or rally the government to introduce tough environmental standards.


Some lovely kids I met in a poor area
THE GOOD:



FRIENDLY PEOPLE

Off the top of my head the best thing about Jakarta is the people.. If it weren't for so many kind, humble and friendly people it would have been difficult to stick around for so long. Partly by virtue of being a Westerner, most Indonesian are curious about you. I've often been able to sit down with guards, street vendors and average Indonesian and have pretty decent conversations. They love to ask about what religion you are and are often surprised to hear I'm an atheist.



A DYNAMIC, INTERESTING AND BUSY CITY

Jakarta is a big, bustling place in a country that has very strong economic growth year on year. In addition, you can pretty much walk on the street anywhere, anytime and find people eating or selling something. There are many good pubs, clubs, restaurants, street vendors and malls.  Getting to these places without mind-numbing hours of traffic is a problem.


THE FOOD:

Indonesian food is pretty damn delicious. Favourites for me are gado-gado which is a salady dish with tempe, rice, egg and a delicious peanut sauce. For sweetness, you can't go past martabak. I've probably got diabetes from the few times I've eaten this delicious deep fried chocolaty, spongy desert but it is ridiculously good.

Indo food is heavily rice and noodle orientated and spice and sugar are the overwhelming taste in a lot of dishes. When I order food there I have to specifically ask for no spice because my tongue is not so fond of the sensation of being on fire.

LOW PRICES

You can buy DVD's for about One dollar
A typical meal goes for between 80 cents and 3 dollars including drink
You can get an hour long massage for about 10 bucks
I got a month long gym membership at a decent gym for just 11USD.
Tidung Island near Jakarta.. Still a bit dirty
Prices are geared for the locals and a humble Western income can allow you a comparatively luxurious lifestyle in Indo. 



LACK OF REGULATION:

In developing countries there is often a sense of the untamed. There's usually less regulation or regulations that are very loosely enforced. You see hilarious/incredibly dangerous behaviour that you people couldn't get away with in Western countries. Examples are people carrying enormous beams of wood on their motorcycle, children as young as eight driving scooters with no helmets etc etc. I know a lot of Indonesians who have no form of driver's license but they've been driving on the road for years. I don't advocate dangerous behavior but at least Indonesia is not incredibly controlling like Singapore


THE BAD:

TOO MUCH TRAFFIC COMBINED WITH NO DECENT PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION

Jakarta has recently been ranked the second worst city in the world to work.

For anyone who has ever been here, you would quickly know why this tops my list as the worst part of Jaks. Sitting in a car, waiting to get to where you want to go and rotting away is not my idea of a good time. Sometimes journeys of just a couple of kilometers can take OVER AN HOUR!!! 

It's at these moments of extreme frustration and boredom that I want to scream obscenities at no one in particular, leave Jakarta and never return. You can't escape traffic by making a u-turn cause most of the roads have a concrete divide. The lack of public transport makes getting anywhere take a long time. If you want to take the bus way, it is fairly comfortable and decent but you have to switch buses many times and the location for the stops are limited. They need an MRT and I hope they get one built soon.

Some paper boys on my campus
NOT BEING ABLE TO BLEND IN:

Being young and white in Jakarta means a lot of attention. It is rare that I would go to an area in Jakarta and not have people whispering "bule" (basically means white person) as I walk by. There's outright staring, laughing, flattering comments, not so flattering comments. Part of it comes from the comparative lack of Westerners in Jakarta, particularly young Westerner's so you are a bit of a novelty. Most of the attention is positive but you can't feel like you really fit in a place when people so obviously treat you differently. If an Indonesian walked through the streets of most of New Zealand, I doubt kiwis would be whispering "Indo, Indo" and laughing as they walked past.
The grotty waters on North Jakarta where many people fish

PERILOUS FOOTPATHS AND SMELLY SEWERS

Trying to walk on the footpaths in a lot of parts of Jakarta is risky business. They are narrow or non-existent, have a lot of bumps, uneven ground and are packed with stalls selling stuff. Sewers are smelly by definition but generally they are hidden deep underground. In Jakarta you will inevitably walk by spots with open sewers and get a revolting waft of turd.

Needless to say, not many people walk long distances in Jaks.


An impoverished kitten that wondered round my campus


THE UGLY:

LACK OF CARE TOWARDS SOME ANIMALS:

Indonesia has an active illegal wildlife trade, particularly with exotic birds and animals that are used in Chinese medicine. I think a lot of Indonesians do care for animals but perhaps animal treatment standards aren't at the top of the country's priority list.

Reasonably often you can see performing monkeys known as "topeng monyet" (monkey with mask) on the street. Monkeys are a naturally dominant species so in order for them to perform tricks, the tamer will pull on a chain around the monkeys neck continuously so the monkey rides a bike or some other grotesque act.

 There are a lot of stray cats around the place and they are often sickly thin. People will feed them but they breed at such a rate (because very few of them are spayed or neutered). Most cats have short or broken tails. According to my friends, there is a belief that a cat with a long tail will behave naughtily.
Dogs are quite rare because most people in Jakarta are Muslim and dogs are a haram (unclean) thing in the Qur'an.

At my course graduation with some Korean classmates
POLLUTION/HEAT:

Jakarta is hot..This is true for a lot of South East Asia though. Jakarta is even more hot and humid than it should be because of the thick coating of smog surrounding the city traps heat inside. On a sunny day it is usually difficult to see the horizon and if you are outside you will almost certainly be perspiring and getting those nice cheap clothes you brought wet from sweat. I saw a statistic that shows that from 2000-2011,Jakarta went from over 30 percent of the city being Green space to just 9 percent. The main reason for the destruction of green space was for the creation of malls.


MALLS:

A two headed coin; people love to shop and some of the malls are pretty swanky and have a nice atmosphere, there's just so bloody many of them!

They create traffic because most of them are next to highways, a guy from New York told me that Jakarta has way more malls than the big apple and the population of New York is nearly double (19million) Jakarta's 10 mill.


RIDICULOUS DISPARITY BETWEEN RICH AND POOR

While there are wealth gaps between all countries, it's so frigging obvious in Jakarta. You can literally have a street full of rich people's houses and have people who sleep on that same street next to the wagon they sell drinks from. There are child beggars all over the place, some of them are part of an organised group, others are just hungry.

Indo fitness god Ade Rai

LACK OF REGULATION/ LAWLESSNESS

A downside of countries that don't strictly enforce laws is safety is not always a priority. Things that are very mundane in the West such as builders wearing safety helmets are just not followed sometimes. You see them standing atop enormous tile roofs with no harness and just a pair of sandals. In huge buildings there are sometimes just one fire exit, a sure-as-hell death-trap if one ever happens within these structures. People still die here from things that are easily preventable. The road toll is atrocious.


CORRUPTION:

Thankfully New Zealand is low on the list of corrupt countries in the world.In Indonesia on the other hand, nearly anyone you talk to is aware of how rampant corruption is. I've heard first-hand accounts from people in government about the misappropriation of funds for personal benefit. There are so many problems in Jakarta that need money to assist in fixing them people who steal so they can buy themselves a new car or holiday are particularly big scumbags. Until corruption is properly dealt with the rest of the above problems will be very difficult to rectify.

All and all, I still enjoyed a lot of Jakarta and I may spend more time living there, not long-term though!

Aku mau feedback dari orang Indonesia jadi tolong menulis kalau Anda mau!