I wrote this just after I returned from Indonesia in February... I was there for nearly two months. Makasih banyak untuk membacar ini.
Indonesia is one of the most populated countries in the world and the region with the most Muslims, and yet it's a place that I think few people in the West know much about.
The chance to travel and discover a new culture is something that I always jump upon so when the opportunity to go on a journalism practicum in Jakarta came up, I went for it.
The impression one would get from the media was that Indonesia was full of danger, terrorism or environmental disasters. While these things were relevant issues they are far from the full picture. I felt safe and welcome during my entire two month trip.
My friend and I arrived at Soekarno-Hatta International at the end of 2009 with open minds but little idea of what Jakarta would be like. Our pre-departure guide went into great detail about things to be aware of but was light on photos.
As we walked from the plane towards the customs area of the airport we were greeted with the cheerful sign warning us that drug trafficking was punishable by death.
Two friendly girls from the University we were to attend greeted us at the airport and instructed us about how much money we would need for the first few days. One of them advised me that 250,000 Indonesian Rupiah (about 27 USD) should get us through the next few days. I was dumbfounded.
The taxi driver back to our Kos (accommodation) introduced us to the chaos that is Jakarta traffic (in Indonesian "macet"). He flashed his lights and honked his horn with gusto. Motorbikes weaved within centimetres of the car and an assortment of vehicles from the very flash to the should-be-banned-from-the-road filled the jam-packed highways. The noise was incredible. (I was to learn that even a short journey by taxi can take thirty minutes).
As the taxi approached came the city I was surprised by the immediate contrasts. We passed by densely populated areas of rusting, corrugated iron houses surrounded by rubbish that were just metres away from luxury highrise buildings.
To get to my kos we travelled down an extremely narrow streets lined with vendors selling fruit, cellphone credit and nearby there were performing monkeys (topeng monyet) that were cruelly beaten into wearing masks and performing tricks. My kos had a large security gate but as one of the young guards pulled it open and let us in he gave us a big smile. The hospitality from the locals was amazing.
A group of about 10 New Zealander's and Australians including myself, walked from our kos to uni each day. During this walk locals would often wave, stare and ask; "How are you Mr?" Being one of the few white faces in the city was an experience because you are the focus of so much attention.
Some people asked for photos with me and would enthustically say "bule" (the exact definition is in dispute but it ranges from "foreigner" to "whitey" to "albino").
Getting across the major roads is a daunting challenge. There are few crossings and the ones that do exist are usually ignored by cars. Generally, you just raise your hand and walk out onto the extremely busy roads. Cars will usually wait for you and motorbikes will weave around you.
In a country where the minimum wage is about 110 USD a month, a person with a modest income from the West can live very well. A decent meal costs between three and six dollars and warung's (street vendors) are even cheaper.
It can be tough seeing the suffering that some of the people living in Jakarta endure. Many of the luxuries that we take for granted in the West are made possible because poor countries like Indonesia have factories that produce goods for poverty wages. Outside of the luxury super malls that Jakarta has so many of, there are often young children holding umbrellas to walk you through the rain for 20 cents or beggars, missing teeth or limbs sitting looking desolate with their arms outstretched.
While I already aware of these problems, seeing the desperation of these people for myself made it more personal and real.
There was a resilience and inherent friendliness from many of the locals who have so little but are so generous which I found touching. On many occasions where I found myself lost, I would have no problem finding someone to help me out.
A big cultural difference from the West was the Muslim religion. Going into shopping malls and walking past rooms full of people kneeling in prayer was not something I was used to. Similarly, at the designated times throughout the day, the sad wailings of the mosques would blare from the loudspeakers which was both beautiful at times and occasionally trying (especially at 5 am in the morning).
Learning the language at a local University was a fantastic introduction to the country because I got the chance to interact with locals my own age who had as much curiousity about me and my culture as I did about theirs.
Jakarta is a place that often gets a bad wrap from travellers but it has great spots to hang out if you know where to go. I was very lucky to become friends with students from Atma Jaya University, some tourism ambassadors for the city and to stay with Indonesians in different parts of the country. I also became close with the family of the woman I was seeing there and being welcomed into their family gave me an insight into a completely different way of life.
Aside from Jakarta I travelled right through Java and Bali but I really only scraped the surface.
Indonesia is not a place that is easy to summarise because there is literally so much happening at any one time. As an emerging democracy and a country that just 12 years ago, was controlled by a dictator there are many issues they have yet to tackle. From corruption, to poverty, to environemtal degradation, public transport - the list goes on. But for all of that - the country, the people are beautiful and fantastic and it was an unforgetable and character building experience. I highly recommend a visit!
Aku cinta Indonesia sangat banyak dan akan segera kembali ke sana lagi
