Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 3, 2015

Flying visit to Berlin

Being as I am, an ardent traveller from an isolated country - living in Europe presents blissfully easy travel opportunities.

Stiff competition between a littany of budget airlines and bus companies as well as a a bunch of ride-sharing website (see Gomore or Mitfahrgelegenheit)  mean it's seldom hard to find an affordable mode of transport somewhere (fancy a quick weekend in the Ukraine? Prices have never been this low!)


Last month I had a week to kill (being stuck in a small Danish city during bouts of shitty weather does elicit murderous impulses).  I took the opportunity to zip down through Berlin, Warsaw and Krakow in the space of a week - ticking off Tripadvisor attractions with German-like efficiency.
I haven't spent much time in Eastern Europe til now but the super cheap prices, friendly folk and general range of interesting activities have left me wanting more. Needless to say, Europe's East also has many beautiful women and this boosts the stock of any destination, amirite?

Through a deft bit of luck, I managed to find a bus ride from Aarhus to Berlin for just 1 Danish Krone (about 15 Euro cents). The average cost to Berlin by bus is 400 DKK (53 Euro) so upon  discovering the sale, I rushed to make a booking, fearing I'd miss out. Faced with this incredible bargain, a crowd of zero other people showed up.

On the bus all alone - perhaps my chronic flatulence scared others away?

I took the eight-hour bus ride from Aarhus to Berlin accompanied by the Danish driver and his wife (who determinedly knitted throughout the journey). Apparently 17 people had booked but I was the only one to show up. The long trip with the top floor to myself allowed me to do the sorts of things most people wish they could do during long bus trips (No, not that you filth!). I lay down across the aisles and busted a few travel exercised along the way, sipping on the seemingly unlimited supply of rather awful coffee. When the opportunity presents, this Kiwi really knows how to live it up!

The first time I went to Berlin

WAAAYYY back in 2011 when I first came to Europe, Berlin left a special impression on me. During that trip in which I spent four months backpacking and Couchsurfing around Europe, I visited great cities such as London, Rome, Dublin and Paris. Berlin however, was in my estimation the coolest of all European capitals.

Berlin - the German families chilled cousin
 
In my two subsequent visits to Berlin in 2015 - a little of the sheen has come off. I like the grittiness, the tolerance of diversity and lifestyle choices. In my more recent visits I noticed the graffiti (which is practically everywhere, even on public monuments) and rubbish on the streets in some areas more than I did the first time. For some, this is part of Berlin's appeal. It doesn't pretend to be the most glamorous city in the world - it embraces people on the periphery. Berlin is a type of Neverland, where someone might feel like wearing a Bugs Bunny onesie in the middle of the day or partying in fetish gear and literally no one cares. 

 It's my impression that some of the German stereotype many people have in their mind (no humour, meticulous planners, incredibly orderly) does not align with the average Berliner (then again, what the hell is "average"?).

If Germany is a family then Berlin is a relaxed cousin - still living at home with his parents at 29, quite alternative - well versed in history and culture but not as studious as his older brother Munich who works as an Engineer.

Berlin is by far Germany's biggest city with around 3,300,000 inhabitants. The next biggest is Hamburg with only 1.6 million. In spite having only half the population, Hamburg has a greater GDP. There are also at least 10 major Germany cities (that I saw) with a higher GDP per capita than Berlin.

One of my oldest friends is a guy born in China who lived in New Zealand between 13-21. He's now been living in Europe for more than six years. After being a scientist at a Swiss pharmaceutical company for several years, he packed up his life and shifted to Berlin where he's cast aside the rigidity he needed to get by in Swiss society and took to Berlin's Bohemian vibe with relish. He's taking his time finding out what he really wants to do with his life and has enough money to support himself as he parties, attends pub quizzes and sporadically travels (an awfully familiar story).

My friend and I had a relaxed couple of days, ambling around town and chilling.

Templehof Airport

One of the highlights was seeing the ENORMOUS abandoned Templehof airport in South-Central Berlin. It's hard to give you a sense of just how expansive this place is as you stand on the outside. Closed in 2008, the central terminal and the runway are all still in tact and today the grounds are used as a park for kite-borders, dog-walkers, rubber-neckers, necker-rubbers, gangle-wobblers, doblin-fafflers and sklange-doffers.
Using his magical powers, Yimu managed to summon a ray of light directly onto his hand



 A few rusting aircraft are situated at various spots aground the grounds. Half-hearted wire fences protect the planes from curious visitors who would probably be crushed by falling debris if they got too close.

This place is highly recommended.


Russian Soldier memorial  
 
On the same day, we also looked at a stately monument erected to the Russian soldiers who died fighting the Nazis during WW2 (Doesn't every conversation about Germany always end up being about the war?) It was similarly gigantic. Something very specific about the feeling I get in Berlin is the sense of large wide-opened spaces. If you compare to neighbouring European capitals such as Amsterdam or Copenhagen, Berlin is just much

Berlin st me as a place with plenty of wide-open spaces compared to other European cities I've visited.

More on the glorious Russians to come!

Berlin Soviet War memorial - Tretow

TO POLAND


Ride sharing with speed demons:

On our way from Berlin we were with a Russian couple (who lived in Germany) who loved hip hop music, bred cute dogs and owned a sweet ride. They were going to Minsk and our female driver topped 200kph at some stages of the journey. On the Autobahns this is totally koshure but Poland's speed limit is 130 so we were a little naughty!
In NZ, we have a competitively laughable speed limit of 100kph. The argument goes that our roads aren't big enough to handle higher speeds, speed kills (which it can of course) but I think the slow speeds on modern highways lead to frustration from many drivers. Anywayss.

WARSAW -  Tour highlights. 

We had a Couchsurfing place sorted out in a reasonably central suburb, so it was only a short journey to downtown.

One of the surprises of Warsaw on first impression was how clean it was compared to Berlin. The subway stations were relatively spotless. The downtown was modern and pleasant.

We caught tour of the downtown on our first day seeing Marie Curie's place, the Jewish ghetto, various monuments to the war, the palace of a Polish

Poles don't hate Germans as much as I expected

In our conversations with locals (and let's admit that this is highligh



Marie Curie (Double Nobel prize winning physicist and chemist) artwork across the road from the museum dedicated to her.

Part of the reconstructed Polish castle. 


Some Polish fare. 

Replica tunnel at the Polish resistance museum 



On the way back we were with a Polish entrepreneur around our age who had moved to Berlin as a teenager and ran a cleaning and rental management company. He drove conservatively at first but after gauging our behaviour let his foot run wild. At some stage of the journey we hit 212km! This was the fastest I'd ever been on land.







Wednesday, October 1, 2014

A Traveller's Guide to Gili Trawangan AKA Drug Island

Gili T at upper right, if you look really close you can see marijuana smoke
Imagine a paradisaical island where horses, bikes and your feet are the only way to get around? Where foreign tourists flock from all corners of the globe to party-hard and which does not have a single police officer?

Such a place exists - and it's called Gili Trawangan (Gili T).

For those unfamiliar - Gili T is one of three small islands off the coasts of Bali and Lombok in Indonesia.

It's an idyllic holiday spot for young travellers, people seeking a bit of peace away from the comparatively hectic Bali. It has sand, beaches, bars, scuba, and much more.

My friend and I
I've travelled to Indonesia quite a few times since 2010 and written about it here. In my most recent trip in May, a very good friend of mine and I decided to cut loose and spent nearly a week exploring, partying and tidur di pantai setelah pesta.

We spent our first four nights in Seminyak, Bali running the street-seller gauntlet, having lots of massages and going to the biggest club either of us had ever seen (called Sky Garden it's jaw-droppingly enormous).

Our next destination were the Gili's.

While I'd heard that they were more chilled than Bali - I had not heard about some the islands unique features.

First: Gili has no police. 

That's right. None.

The seas around Gili are occasionally patrolled by boats from the much bigger island Lombok, but for the most part, their judicial affairs are taken care of by a kind of island-style elder.

But how does that work?

(Not how he imagined leaving the island)
So I was curious of how criminals would be taken care of on the island. What if someone murders someone else? I was told by locals that they are more concerned with crime of Indonesians towards foreigners than foreigner on foreigner or local on local. If a local is say - caught stealing something from a tourist they will be severely reprimanded. 
If you are caught stealing, foreigner or not - you may have to be paraded down the street bearing a sign such as this (see picture).
Similarly, if the locals see the police coming, they will warn foreigners to ditch their drugs (either hide or throw them away), so they are taking care of their customers - so to speak.If there is a big crime, like a violent incident etc, the mainland police will get involved but that's rare.

No cars, no motorbikes.. 

I didn't realise just how noisy Indonesian roads are until I found myself in a place where the only noise I could hear on the dirt roads were the clip clop of hooves and the jingle of bells which the horses have tied to them.

You might also hear the rumble of a boat engine or a bike bell ding, but being around 6 km  in circumference, there is simply no need or room for motorised transport.

(Source: Terra_trippa)
You'll also hear people not-so-subtly asking "You want (insert drug name) friend?"

 Drugs, Drugs, DRUUUUUGGGSS

South East Asia has many places for tourists to consume substances with little hassle from the police or risk of ramifications. Gili T takes this to a whole other level.

Surprisingly, most of the dealers looked exactly like this
The lack of police means the street sellers don't just tell you about the drugs - they whip them out and show you. I had a dude outside a bar ask "Want some acid?" Before I had a chance to respond he had a bag of little tabs in my face with little pictures of Jimmy Hendrix on them (I should clarify that I'm not into hard drugs).

Responsible advertising from a 100 percent non-dodgy establishment
I refused his offers in Indonesian "Boleh - mau Speed? Mushrooms? Ketamine?"

The guy was persistent! I declined his offers again. He then grinned, looked at me close and asked "Need Viagra?"

Apparently selling illegal Viagra is a big thing in parts of Asia and I laughed out loud at the offer. I can't imagine why a young person would pop Viagra unless they wanted to be running around the island with a giant boner (extra stamina perhaps?) but each to their own.

There are almost nightly beach raves on some portion of Gili and there will usually be a few glazed eyes around the place. 

I should clarify that not everyone who goes to Gili is into drugs and even those who take some drugs are not necessarily total druggies.. In general, the vibe on the island is very relaxed. However, if someone is into drugs, they can find a spot on the beach somewhere and get walloped without much bother.

There are three islands in close proximity - Air, Meno and Trawangan. Air and Meno are smaller and more relaxed while Trawangan is the bigger, more-party friendly island.

Super-chill 

The super chill Gili Hostel
More than anything - Gili stays in my head for the relaxed atmosphere. Each of the six days I was there started at Gili Hostel, lazing in the upstairs lounge, having pancakes for breakfast, playing some pool with my friend. In such a small place, one spends most of the time walking around slowly, sitting on the beach, having a swim, a read and then getting ready for a good time at night.


Activities

 I met a loads of awesome people from around the world and people come there for up to weeks at a time to eat, meet, greet, fuck, party, snorkel, scuba, paddle-board, fish and so on.

Aboard the massive fishing vessel

Our fishing trip was fairly dodge, myself, my Australian friend and a Swedish dude hired some locals and their rickety little fishing boat and out we went. I had mentally prepared myself to kill my first fish. This was going to be a big thing for me considering I had thus far killed absolutely nothing. We spent two hours out at sea and had a couple of bites but not much else. The swells started to get big later in the night and my friend had some stomach troubles so we got back to shore as it got dark.

Other activities I can recommend are stand-up paddle boarding which was super hard work and more difficult than it looks or scuba diving. There are dozens of companies operating from the island, I recommending checking TripAdvisor.com before you choose a place because there are varying levels of quality from providers. 

Beach party

These parties are what a lot of people show up for. Dance music, people everywhere, random hook-ups. I did noticed a few meat-heads around (douchebag). The sort who'll be like "Let's get fuccccckkkeeeeddd uuupppp!!" Fortunately, these people were in the minority and the people I dealt with mostly knew their limits.



BUT! There is a dark side

Not everyone knows how to handle their drugs or alcohol and the lack of regulation on the island can be dangerous. At New Years celebrations in 2013, an Australian teenager died at a bar called Rudy's because he was served a drink laced with methanol (which is poisonous).

   GET THERE!

The longest I stayed up on the paddle board was one minute
If you are planning on visiting South East Asia and you like a mixture of outdoor activities and partying, Gili is one of the best places I've ever been so it's highly recommended!
Beach-life at Gili-



Sunset on the water

Out to the islands on a glass bottomed boat